There’s something magical about getting on a ferry and leaving the mainland for an island. We’ve done it all over the world and it never loses it’s appeal. Last week we hopped the ferry in Wood’s Hole, MA for Martha’s Vineyard with our pals J and M.
Martha’s Vineyard has a vibe. It’s a little bohemian, it’s a little sophisticated, it’s home to a number of celebs and it has hosted some Presidents. You can stay in the action packed towns of Edgartown, Oak Bluffs and Vineyard Haven, or you can go for the more quiet appeal of West Tisbury, Menemsha or Chilmark. We opted for West Tisbury.
We had no agenda except for making sure we had a great time and eating well which we did on all counts!
Our days were spent on the beach, at the pool, shopping, eating and playing Bananagrams, my new favorite game. It was a totally relaxing few days.
Our first order of business was checking in to our base of operations: Lambert’s Cove Inn and Restaurant. Lambert’s Cove has a lot of things going for it: its away from the hustle and bustle located in West Tisbury on a dead end road. And, it has passes to Lambert’s Cove Beach, a beautiful stretch of white sand with lots of space to spread out.
Food was really important on this get-away so I’m going to talk mostly about the restaurants.
Our first meal on the Vineyard was breakfast/lunch at the Art Cliff Diner. Located in Vineyard Haven, it’s a funky little space. Open only for breakfast and lunch, there’s always a wait. Our’s was an hour so we did other things, came back and got seated. Lunch – grilled cheese with bacon, homemade fries, homemade corned beef hash. Great comfort food and worth the wait.
On our first night, we had a reservation at Lattanzi’s in Edgartown, the second oldest restaurant in Martha’s Vineyard serving traditional Italian, everything homemade and there’s some good cooking going on in their kitchen. A good waitperson is essential for a restaurant. At Lattanzi it was Megan that helped to make our meal enjoyable. She’s a local and has worked in many of the Vineyard’s better known restaurants. She knew the menu well and made some suggestions. We knew things were going to be good when the bread came out. Homemade by the owner/chef using a traditional Italian recipe without salt. We dipped the bread in a rich olive oil. It was so basic and good. Then, grilled island striped bass with a basil salsa fresca. Sounds good, right? It was. A Bolognese with a veal ragu which Albert the owner grinds by hand. Oh, and for our first course, which we were going to opt for instead of bread, a pizza funghi with 3 different types of mushrooms. Dessert – homemade gelato. Wine – a nice, crisp Pinot Grigio. We were happy campers!
Day 2
Hoping to spend Friday on the beach, we woke up to off and on rain. Okay, we can make do. J had a golf date at Farm Neck Country Club and he wouldn’t miss it unless there was a nuclear war. While J played golf, we went to Bunch of Grapes Bookstore to find something to read. Roy asked one of the clerks where the best clam chowder was and he steered us to The Net Result. Great choice. Excellent chowder, steamers still gritty and smelling of the ocean. We sat at a picnic table under an umbrella while it drizzled and devoured our lunch.
Then we did some walking around Oak Bluffs. It’s unique. The houses look like gingerbread houses and there’s a particular history to the town. The main street, Circuit Ave is like a carnival. That’s where we stopped to watch fudge being made at Murdick’s. The gentleman in the picture making the fudge is from Jamaica and has been making fudge for a number of years. He loves his job and is proud of what he does. It showed.
Dinner – back to Edgartown to walk around, check out the very expensive shops where M bought a very cool handmade leather belt and have dinner at Alchemy. A whole different vibe was going on from the night before at Lattanzi. Hip, loud, crowded and we think we saw Luke Wilson (I’m just saying). Our waiter, another great one named Eddie. He knew what we wanted to do – share. So he said he’d bring our entrees family style. On the table – red and gold beet and wild green salad with pistachios, pork carnita tacos with spicy slaw, soft shell crab with sweet pea risotto, Angus steak frites, mushroom risotto balls with shaved Parmesan. Was that enough for us. NO! For dessert, strawberry shortcake and a raspberry cheesecake with a chocolate crust, raspberry coulis and chocolate sauce. OMG! There’s a pastry chef in the kitchen that really knows what they’re doing. Don’t forget the Pinot Grigio and Sambucca’s in the lounge after dinner.
Day 3 –
A beautiful day for the beach – Lambert’s Cove the destination. It’s private and you need a pass. That keeps the crowds away. Of course, we went totally unprepared, no water, no food so by 2P we were famished. We ended up at the Scottish Bake House. It sounds like it makes scones and English breads and pastries, right? It does, but it also makes incredible sandwiches and filling meals. We pigged out with Cuban pork, black beans and rice and meatloaf with kale. What were we thinking?? We had dinner reservations at State Road, the most celebrated restaurant on the Island. How could we possibly eat again? We could!! And, we are not big people but we can pack it in if we have to!!
So, we relaxed, played a little Bananagrams, got dressed and decided to go to Edgartown before our reservation at State Road. Well, I thought I’d call just to reconfirm the reservation and was told my name wasn’t on the list. What?? A rude person calling herself the manager said my name was nowhere. Well, not having good cell service, being at the beach, I wasn’t able to call the restaurant when they left me a message. Did they give me the benefit of the doubt? No, and for that I thank them. We didn’t know what to do being a Saturday night so we went to Edgartown and ended up at the bar at The Atlantic. The bartender who is a foodie, gave us some ideas but his best idea was for us to go to The Red Cat Kitchen at Ken ‘n’ Beck in OB (Oak Bluffs). Roy called and snagged us a reservation. For that recommendation, we can’t thank him enough.
If you’re going to Martha’s Vineyard, I’m telling you to get yourself to Ken ‘n’ Beck. It’s owner/chef is putting out some kick-ass food. It’s located in a run-down little house in Oak Bluffs, painted crazy colors inside with original art, mismatched tables and chairs and a small bar. The drinks are served in ball jars. You get it – it has an attitude. We were told when we sat down that the chef likes the music loud. “No Expectations” by The Rolling Stones was blasting. The first of many old Rolling Stones songs we heard that evening. Very fitting and okay by us. Besides being foodies we’re rock n’ rollers. The owner/chef, Ben deForest is formerly of The Red Cat which coincidentally was located where State Road now sits. I call it Karma! We had an incredible dinner. Again, a great waitperson named Pam. We could have eaten everything on the menu but opted for Buttermilk Fried Chicken, with locally sourced kale and whipped potatoes in a sweet onion vanilla jus. Island Fresca which is Mr. deForest’s invention – a corn broth with ripe tomatoes, corn and Reggiano. It’s a soup, it’s fresh and delicious. Then, Rhode Island crispy oysters with hot peppers, and deep fried golden tomato and lobster salad with avocado and preserved lemon. The only thing that we weren’t too thrilled about was a gnocchi which was a little mushy but we ate it anyways! Are you hungry yet?? You should be.
Day 4 –
One of the interesting things we did was take a walk from the Inn to Ice House Pond. It’s a fresh water pond and is overseen by the Land Bank which is a Trust that preserves some of the beautiful land that Martha’s Vineyard sits on. Because the neighbors surrounding the pond complained about partying and making noise, there is always someone at the entrance checking people in and only a few at a time can swim in it. And, when you’re there, you can’t talk above a whisper and no cannonballs off the dock! It’s worth seeking out.
If you go to the Vineyard, be sure to stop in at Bunch of Grapes Bookstore. They are independent, have a new location across the street from the original store and have a huge selection of great books. The salespeople are knowledgeable and can give you ideas on what to read.
Be prepared, Martha’s Vineyard is expensive. But hey, you’re on vacation so splurge a little and have a good time!
See you at the bar….
All true; all good!!! I <3 the Vineyard!