Madrid. The third largest city in Europe after London and Berlin. A city of 3.3 million people. It has one of the best and cleanest metro systems in the world. World class museums, restaurants, fashion and despite a 25% unemployment rate, a joie de vivre that’s hard to resist. I love a new city and never knowing what to expect from it. Will we be happy or disappointed? We were happy, very happy and here’s why.
Yes, it’s big but it’s walkable, it’s clean, the people are friendly, and the food is a whole other story.
Our hotel was located on a cobble stoned side street leading from the Teatro Real (Opera) and behind the Grand Palace. A good beginning. We dropped our bags and headed out for lunch. With lots of restaurants and cafes in the neighborhood we chose what looked like the best one. Cafe in the plaza, white tablecloths and professional waiters, can’t go wrong.
So what were our highlights in Madrid? There were many and I’m going to give you my top list.
Half-Day Tour with a “Cat”
On our first day we had a half-day walking tour with a local guide, Mayte. Someone who is from Madrid or as she called herself a “cat”. What’s a cat? People who call themselves “cats” or “gatos” are from one of the original families of Madrid. The story goes that when the Muslims had control of the city with walls so high that they didn’t think the Spaniards could climb over but they did the Muslims said “they must have been cats to be able to climb the walls”. People from Madrid also call themselves “Madrilenos”.
We walked all over the city and some things that were pointed out to us we would never have known about without a guide. Like, the Monesterio del Corpus Christi. Just a wooden door on a side street but behind the door are cloistered nuns that make cookies. Ring the bell to enter, walk down a long hallway and talk to a nun behind a closed door. You never see her but you envision her to be about 90 and 4’9″, and with her little voice she tells you what cookies are available on that particular day. You tell her which you’d like, she opens the sliding door and through a lazy Susan comes a box of cookies. You place the money in the lazy Susan contraption and the door closes. The cookies are simple with only a few varieties to choose from on any given day. We bought “Naranjines” or orange flavored. Simple cookies but very good.
As we walked Mayte gave us the history of Madrid, we saw amazing architecture and learned about the symbol of Madrid which is my featured post picture: the bear and the Madrona tree which has come to be known as a strawberry tree. Why a bear and a strawberry tree? There are lots of theories. You see that symbol everywhere including on the city’s sewer covers.
We made a special stop in an office building to see a bronze sculpture of Raton Perez – who is that you ask? He’s a famous mouse and is to Spanish children what Mickey Mouse is to American children. Every Spanish child knows about him and like the tooth fairy, he leaves money when teeth fall out.
Statues – they’re everywhere you look. On buildings, on top of buildings. Here’s a little sampling:
The Food
Okay, the food is major. It was hard not to stop into every little tapas bar and pastelleria but you have to have some restraint. Madrid is a late night city. Don’t go to dinner at 8:30 or 9P because you’ll be the only ones dining. Well, you and other foreigners! I’m going to break it down because we ate so much!
Our guide told us that the most favorite lunch of Madrilenos is to have a bocadillo de calamare and a beer. We would probably never had stopped in at one of the many little restaurants that are on side streets off the Plaza Mayor and advertise the bocadillos de calamares but after hearing about them we were there! There’s no tartar sauce, no flavored oils, just a fresh roll and fried calamares-that’s it. Simple and really good. We split one and with that a little plate of pickles and pickled onions.
A couple of standouts:
La Barraca – We were told the best restaurant to have an authentic paella was La Barraca. That’s the specialty of the restaurant and they do it well. We ordered the Queen Paella with langoustine and prawns. We ate the whole thing. I felt so sick but in a good way!!
Chocolateria San Gines – On a side alleyway sits Chocolateria San Gines serving churros and thick, dark cups of chocolate to dip the churros in. It’s been doing this since 1894. I thought churros were from Mexico but I was wrong. Roy ordered two cups of chocolate and two orders of churros. The waiter came over to the table to confirm the order. He thought it was wrong. This is why. One order would have been plenty.
Tapas Crawl
Cava Baja. That’s the street if you want to go on a tapas crawl. Pick a tapas bar, any one. They’re all good. Have a glass of wine and point to what looks interesting. Have a plate of jamon (ham) that’s being sliced at the entrance to the bar. Spaniards love jamon and there’s a big variety to choose from. Then as you’re finishing one glass of wine, another is poured without you even asking. Of course they want you to stay and eat more but there are other bars to try, which we did!
The Markets
In what was once not a great neighborhood the Market San Miguel is a fancy, new and modern market. It’s got everything you need or want and you can sit at any number of bars, have a quick bite and a glass of wine. It’s spectacular.
Stay tuned for more and see you at the bar….
Looks great, and how do keep your girlish figure?
And are you ever home? I’m so curious as to how you travel so much? Or do you stil have a residence here in the US?
Thngs are good here in Colorado. Tennis and hiking and working at our business.
Only travel plans are a tennis week in Scottsdale, and some riviera maya time. Pretty much can’t go far because of work. So glad I’m based in a great place, or I’d be going crazy.