Roma! A train from Naples, a taxi to Trastervere where we would be staying. The taxi stopped across the street from the building we were going to be staying in for two nights. No sign on the door, nothing to welcome us. We had to schlep our bags across a busy street, ring a doorbell and either walk up four easy flights of marble stairs or take an old fashioned lift which could only fit Roy and the bags. Hmmm, not sure what to expect we were welcomed by Michaela, a charming young woman who with her cousin Elisa have created an incredible four suites on one floor of a 5 story building. Built by their grandfather a merchant in Trastevere, for his five children, one floor for each child. It was an amazing experience. Like living in Trastevere and coming back to our apartment. Beautifully designed, new, our room looking out over the street and a church, we loved it.
Trastevere. Old Rome, across the Tiber River. Alive with musicians, art, boutiques and lots of restaurants this was our base for two days.
Remember I said the trip was about people? Well, Rome was about that but especially it was about food! Our first night in Rome, we went on a four hour food tour of Trastevere. And, I’m not going to mince words. This was nirvana for us. If you love food, this is it. In four hours we walked through Trastevere with Sarah who is from the U.S. and who now lives in Rome. She’s a sommelier, actress, foodie, fluent in Italian, and gave our small group a tour of some of the best restaurants, wine cellars, bakeries and the oldest pharamcy in the city. Things we could never have done on our own.
Some of the highlights of the tour:
Our first stop – Da Enzo al 29. Small, locally sourced foods, limited menu, it was a gem and it has won many awards. This is a picture of melon from Sicily, the sweetest I’ve ever tasted. With it, a thin slice of prosciutto and burrata drizzled with olive oil – the best burrata I’ve ever had. Along with that, a glass of prosecco from a small vineyard in Treviso. And, that was the first stop on our tour!
If you’re in Rome check it out. In fact, we liked it so much we went back for our last night in Rome. Sitting next to a couple from the UK, we started talking and found out they lived in Liverpool, he was into music and Bruce Springsteen changed his life. In fact, he said the reason he rolls his tee shirt sleeve is because of Bruce. And, his “auntie” dated Paul!!
The owner 
Jack of all trades in the restaurant – hostess, waitress, she does it all
Next up, a wine tasting at Spirito di Vino, a restaurant housed in an old synagogue. Down to the massive wine cellar which is 150 years older than the Colosseum, for a taste of wines and some little bites. This restaurant is also part of the slow food movement, everything locally sourced.
This lady and her family makes cookies, hundreds of varieities and the family has been in business for generations.
La Renella Bakery and Pizzeria, one of Rome’s best known, providing bread throughout the city. We were given a behind the scenes tour of the pizza and bread being made. The wood fired ovens are fueled by hazelnut shells brought to Rome from a farm. The ovens which go back to 1870 are not allowed to be turned on until 4PM.
This man makes the dough for the bread in his shorts. It’s so hot it’s like a sauna. He’s been doing it for years and as you can tell he loves what he does.
The bread – called casareccia (homeade).
We visited the the legendary delicatessen Antica Caciara, selling their meats since 1900 and unfortunately closing soon. Their mortadella waas like nothing you’ve ever had.
We also sampled homemade ravioli, swordfish carpaccio, more wine and still had room for gelato from Fatamorgana the gelateria that brought gourmet gelato to Rome.
It was over the top and we loved every minute of it!!
Next up, our last day in Rome.
See you at the bar…..
